Dial M for Murder

Yesterday, Jim Ewing and I completed the first ascent of Dial M for Murder M8 on Mt. Willard. Dial M is named after the old Alfred Hitchcock film, which seems fitting for the area. This is a very FUN and aesthetic climb. I look forward to hearing from any folks that get on it. I won’t lie, I enjoy reading the comments on MountainProject.com :-)

The Beta

Dial M for Murder climbs out lower left rock buttress near the base of the Upper Hitchcock Gully past six bolts. It’s a fully bolted mixed rig, except for the ice at the top where you will want at least one ice screw.

Start on strenuous rock moves on the lowest line of bolts on the left wall of the gully. Climb past two bolts and establish yourself on an ice drool to clip the third bolt. Be careful, as ground fall is possible in this section if a clip is fumbled.

Move up thin ice, tending left past two more bolts, then past two rock corners to gain the bottom of the third smooth hanging corner.

An overhanging move and very delicate (and small!) pick and crampon placements allow you to balance your way up the corner. During the first ascent, there was the thinnest of ice smears on the face, but it’s not always there.

From the top of the corner, move left on a steinpull under the roof to gain the ice above. Finish up WI4 ice to the trees.

There were slings left in the trees to rap off of, but they may no longer be there. A 60m rope is recommended, though a 50m is probably sufficient.

Read Climbing Magazine’s article about Dial Mfor Murder here.